Tuesday, September 4, 2012

A few comments on the videos, and then some final thoughts about this trip: In the video of the island dance practice, you see a dance class. Students of all ages learn traditional Maori dances. Most start as very young children, but there are certainly older students as well. Our group was invited to participate here, and one of the dancers is a member of our team. The man in the white shirt with his back to the camera is actually the Minister of Culture. He is a really good dancer. The little boy lying in the front is his son. Boys wear their hair long until the family has a hair-cutting ceremony.

The kids singing at the school: I had to film that secretly from the back, while hiding behind those two rather large ladies in front of me, because the teacher who was leading the song is quite fierce and I was scared to death of her! I was afraid that if she saw me filming or taking pictures, she would have me "stripped off and flayed".  (I heard her make that threat to the kids for some infraction, so I was trying not to call attention to myself. I'm sure she meant it in jest...)

The video of the opening of the Pacific Leader's Forum was about 4 hours of what you see in the short clip. Singing, dancing, drumming, all sorts of celebration. Each leader was carried in on a pa'ata, which is a sort of platform, carried by very strong island men. The leader of Samoa was a bit more challenging than New Zealand Prime Minister Julia Gillard, who is a rather small woman. Henry Puna is the Prime Minister of the Cook Islands and quite handsome. He sings, and the ladies at the library referred to him as "Elvis" Puna.

All in all, it was the most amazing trip. Am I glad to be home? Absolutely. Would I go back again? Absolutely. In fact, the ladies at the library already have a project lined up for me, on my next visit! I appreciated how quickly we were welcomed into the community. Tourism is their number one industry, so they know how to do it right, but I felt that our volunteering really helped us to get to know people, too. The people of the Cook Islands were warm and hospitable and it was a bit sad to leave them. A few of our volunteer team are still there working, as they opted for the three-week program, and it was a bit hard to leave them behind as well. It's wonderful that you can start out as complete strangers and end up as friends in such a short time.
Our volunteer group, with Hillary Clinton.

Monday, September 3, 2012

Husking a coconut using a sharp stake.

Island flower.

The library ladies, Sally and Jean. They were great.

An island native, at a reenactment village.

Island dance practice.

Saturday, September 1, 2012

It is the last day, and I am ready to go home. Last night, we went out to dinner at a restaurant and were able to do a short meet-and-greet with Hilary Clinton. The islanders love her, and she is called "Aunty Hills" by the locals. Pictures of that to follow, as soon as I get back to the states.

A brief discussion of the library, as it relates to the Cook Islands. There are so many books that there is absolutely no shelf room. All donations are cataloged and added to the collection, no matter how old, out-dated, or tatty. There is no money to support this library. The money for the two paid staff members, all the books, utilities and supplies has to be generated by the library. They sell locally written Cook Island histories, bananas, shoe shine kits, purses, used books, cookies, coffee and tea, and they have admission fees to the attached Cook Island museum, for which they are also responsible. New books are rare. They are getting things now that Bismarck would have received new last year. Or the year before. There is one laptop computer that is used by staff members. Wireless is available, but Jean berates patrons loudly and vociferously if they try to use the wireless and are not paying members of the library. It does have a small membership fee for residents, and a large fee for visitors, partially refunded if they return all of their books.

It seems to be the gossip center of the island, and many people stop in every day to exchange local news with the staff. A woman they all knew died recently, and there was much lively discussion about her having chosen to "join Davey Jones' locker" rather than having a traditional funeral. Burial at sea is legal and rather common here. While there are a number of adult patrons who use the library on a regular basis, I only saw one or two children, and the staff report that they do not get very many young readers, though the children's collection is fairly large. Reading is not a priority here, and many houses have only the Bible and no other books. Most of the adult readers seem to be Kiwis or Aussies. I saw few island natives. Still, it does have an important place in the community and I have been invited to return and to do more projects. Before I was allowed to shelve books, I was questioned on my proficiency with the Dewey Decimal system. It appears that I have sufficient skill, since I was allowed to remove my shoes and shelve books one afternoon.

Thursday, August 30, 2012

Tomorrw is my last working day on the island. We get up early for a morning meeting and then make our way to our various jobs on the city bus. There is one bus driver in particular who is either very popular or much hated, depending upon how many times you have heard his routine. He used to be an island guide, but now treats the bus riders to his (often) crass and inappropriate (and occasionally funny) brand of humor. He calls himself "Mr. Hopeless". I was treated to more than a half hour of his patter yesterday before I could flee!

This evening, we will tour a local brewery. The beer is made and bottled by the man who is the country manager for Global Volunteers. The beer is quite good, and it's claim to fame is that there is "no crap added". It seems to be a good selling point. As everyone gets ready for H.C. and her entourage, they have also offered a free beer to anyone who is named "Hilary Clinton". I saw a sign advertising that, in honor of "Aunty Hilary" there would be a night market with fireworks....

We have been able to participate in several cultural events here, including the Pacific Leader's Forum. It was at the National Auditorium, which holds a few thousand people. No security, no metal detector, no bag checks. People are everywhere, inside and out. Many of the island women and children in native dress stood up in their seats adn danced to the drumming and music. This was encouraged by teh organizers of the event, and much photographed. It was unlike any sort of national leaders' conference that would be held in the United States.
This mural is on the outside of the public library. I have
been working there all week.

Detail of the mural.

This is part of the opening ceremony of the Pacific Islands Forum.
It was really amazing.

This kettle is in the Cook Islands museum. You can't tell from looking
at it, but it is solid cast iron and took 6 men to move it.
At least 4 adults could fit comfortably inside. I'm told
it is for rendering whale blubber....I hope that's all they
have used it for!

Monday, August 27, 2012

I am finished with my work at the Titikaveka school. The library is not in use by students right now, and it does not look as if it will be at any time in the near future, so all of my work may be for naught. I started working at the public library today, and I am currently updating the acquisitions list on a laptop. The library is interesting and filled with visitors. One of the Rarotongan natives sat next to me and in the course of our discussion, I discovered that he did his college degree at THE Ohio State, and also at Western Kentucky. He has a master's degree in sociology.

Yesterday, I rented a bike and my friend Yolonda and I rode completely around the island. It is about 18 miles, and we took our time. She did a little snorkeling as well, and reported that the fish were amazing. We have seen the whales several times now, and they were particularly acitve on Saturday morning. There are no native land mammals here, save for fruit bats. They eat them, and report them as "tender" and "succulent". We haven't been offered that at our dinners...yet. I always imagine bats to be rather crispy and leathery. I may find out! We have eaten a great deal of raw fish here, in a dish called ika mata. It's surprisingly good. I also learned that raw mussels are very tasty, but unlike oysters, you chew them before swallowing. There are some other interesting foods offered at the Saturday market that I have not been brave enough to try. One in particular: coconut in fermented crab juice. Maybe next time...

Chickens and dogs are everywhere, and roam freely. Pigs and goats are tied to coconut trees, but cows are usually in pairs and tied to each other. There is little dairy production here, so milk is usually boxed in those packages like rice or soy milk is in the U.S. If you want fresh milk, you must pay about $7 per liter. Few people eat cheese or yogurt here, for the same reason. It's too expensive.
These are some of the books that were left uncataloged. I cleaned
and labeled them all, but the library is still not  in use...

This little girl is about 4, and she is dancing for money
in the Saturday market.

This is the Cook Islands National Library. It was closed
due to the big Pacific Forum, but I was permitted to
take a picture.

I didn't get any free ice cream. There is a similar sign
at the brewery, in case H.C. likes beer...

These children start learning native dancing as early as two or three.
This is part of a cultural dance performance at one of the
restaurants.

Thursday, August 23, 2012

Whales!

Very early this morning, after some vigorous crowing by Sir Rodney the Rooster, I woke up and walked to the end of the deck by my room, thinking I would sip my coffee and watch the sun come up. Instead, I was treated to the sight of a couple of humpbacked whales. They were close enough so that I could see the water shoot up as they blew, and when one suddenly breached, I could hear the slap as it landed back in the water. What a wonderful way to start the day.

If you have been paying attention to world news, you will know that there is great excitement in the Cook Islands right now. The Pacific Island leaders' forum is being held here in Rarotonga next week. All sorts of dignitaries have started to arrive. The children at the school where I work are practicing songs and dances and the whole island is in an uproar. It is the largest event ever to be held here in Rarotonga. There are rumors that a certain secretary of state is going to be here, along with her somewhat more famous husband. If we are working at a school, we will be permitted to attend this function. It should be quite an event.


Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Day two of the school

I spent yesterday and today at the Titikaveka College, which is actually a school for grades 7-11. They no longer have a librarian, so no one has maintained the library for this entire year. The books were all over the place and there were more than a few bugs. I learned that you should pull them out of the shelves one at a time, however, unless you don't mind being really surprised by a quick lizard. Yikes!

I will be there tomorrow and Friday, and then I move to the public library. I toured it and the cultural center last night, and I am anxious to go back. We have had a great deal of local foods here, some that I recognized and many that I did not.

A few pictures

This is the view from the hotel balcony.

The tide is out here, and you can see them practicing for a race.

The library at Titikaveka school.

I am using an island broom to clean termites off the shelves.



Monday, August 20, 2012

Day one

Early this morning, I crossed the equator. I didn't cross the International Date Line, but I can see tomorrow from here. We spent the morning doing some orientation with the 9 volunteers who are here to work at whatever tasks they assign us. This is the 130th Global Volunteers group to visit Rarotonga.  We will spend most of our time tutoring in the schools, but I have also requested work in the two libraries here. We have more orientation this afternoon, and this evening, we will enjoy traditional island food.

It's winter here, or very nearly. The weather is cool and low 70's. We went into town to exchange our money, buy bus passes, and get wi-fi cards. We also toured the entire island , which you can do in about an hour, just by staying on the bus. If you have the sea at your left, you are going clockwise, and if the sea is at your right, you are traveling "anti-clockwise". Internet is rather dicey here, so updates may be sporadic. More later, if I can get my pictures uploaded!

Sunday, August 12, 2012

The beginning...

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one's lifetime.”


Mark Twain

In 7 days, I will travel from Bismarck, North Dakota to Rarotonga, in the Cook Islands, a journey of roughly 5973.8 miles. I am going on a volunteer vacation with Global Volunteers, a type of travel known as "voluntourism".  I will spend two weeks there volunteering in a variety of school and museum libraries. I must work 40 hours per week, but my evenings and weekends are my own for travel and exploration.